Luang Prabang, Laos
Our journey to Luang Prabang, a stunning UNESCO World Heritage city, unfolded as we soared into the airport from Siem Reap, the sun setting on a perfect January late afternoon. Our arrival was punctuated by spectacular sights as we descended into the hilly terrain of central Laos, a fire-like sunset settling upon the sky and surrounding scenery. Exiting the plane into the open evening air sent us a rush of warmth and awesome beauty as we marveled at the electric pink, fiery orange and deep purple of the sky meeting the many ridge lines stretching out before us.
Once again we went into the all too familiar routine of gathering bags, securing a taxi and checking into our accommodations for our stay. Our guest house, while less than stellar in terms of accommodations (including a sad, sad breakfast), compensated with its strategic location in the heart of old Luang Prabang. Tucked down a charming side street, it provided easy access to the enchanting Mekong River, the temples and night market, as well as the vibrant energy of the town. The mediocrity of our lodgings was quickly overshadowed by the charm of the surrounding historic district.
Eager to delve into the local culinary scene, we ventured to the night food market. Unfortunately, a poor decision (on mostly Gabriel’s part) led us to the "fancy" place upstairs, missing out on the bustling energy and variety of the vibrant food stalls below. A “highlight” from the dinner included weird hot dogs in our soup and fried chicken that had been literally turned to jerky; yum. Despite this gastronomic setback, the bright and fresh flavors of Laos still tantalized our taste buds, leaving us eager to shake off the first meal disappointment for the rest of our time in the country.
The following morning we hired a shuttle for a day of exploration at Kuang Si waterfalls, an enchanting series of falls that Gabriel remembered fondly from his previous visit. The excursion took us an hour outside of town to the very busy, highly organized and very stunning site of the waterfalls. Although it started out seemingly chaotic, when venturing past the dense crowds at the lower falls, we enjoyed some private moments and savored the experience. Witnessing the incredible turquoise waters cascading down limestone formations left us in awe, and Oliver (and, frankly, Gabriel and Katharina too) was thrilled to jump into the waters and swim and splash in the waterfalls and terraced pools. During our explorations of the grounds we also paid a visit to their sun bear rescue center, adding a bit of interesting insight into the local endangered wildlife that Laos is fighting to protect.
That evening, in the heart of Luang Prabang, Gabriel and Oliver embarked on a memorable evening walk to the top of Mount Phusi, the location of the central temple. Navigating through insane crowds, all with the same idea of experiencing the magical sunset, the central temple provided panoramic views of the Mekong River and the city below (at least it did when you managed to navigate through the crowds…). Oliver's apparent charm and irresistible looks made him popular with local teenage girls, resulting in their desire to take spontaneous selfies with him. He was perplexed and more than a bit embarrassed by the attention, but it was obviously adorable.
After Oliver and Gabriel returned to the guesthouse, as a family, we decided to take an extensive stroll through the incredible night markets. With nearly a month left to travel it was difficult exercising restraint against the temptation to overbuy (which we didn’t, but, in retrospect, should have). The vibrant atmosphere, coupled with great products and prices, created a delightful dilemma as we navigated the bustling stalls and shops, soaking in the lively night market scene and haggling for items of interest. After the market we made a wise decision and enjoyed an delectable meal at the night market, making up for the disappointment of the previous night.
