Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Venturing into Cambodia from Vietnam offered a stark contrast in the differences in development between neighboring countries. Whereas Vietnam, especially Ho Chi Minh City, is quite modern and highly developed in a way that would be familiar to most westerners, Cambodia is still somewhat in the early stages of modernization, with more limited infrastructure, seemingly simpler lifestyles for most of the populace and quite evident poverty. It is clear that the lasting impacts of the terror of Khmer Rouge rule and decades under the rule of “Prime Minister” (really a dictator) Hun Sen have left this Southeast Asian gem quite far behind it’s eastern (Vietnam) and western (Thailand) neighbors.
Arriving in Siem Reap we were thrilled to know that we’d finally be staying in one place for our five nights in the country; after so much movement during our time in Vietnam we were ready to settle down a tad. After a surprisingly long, traffic free, ride from the brand new (opened in November of 2023) Siem Reap airport (actually located 50+ kilometers from town) we were graciously welcomed by the amazing staff at our Airbnb/hotel, located outside of the bustle of the tourist filled streets of central Siem Reap. Feeling the weight of our travels we decided to spend our first day and a half enjoying the property, the pool, and the lovingly prepared food from the kitchen staff. It was a treat to lounge, read and soak in the beauty of the surroundings of the tranquil setting.
Our second morning filled us with anticipation as we prepared for a day of exploration at the awe-inspiring temples of Angkor Wat. Rising early to catch the sunrise with our guide Sinan, the first light bathed the iconic temple and we marveled at the intricate details and grandeur of this ancient architectural wonder. Although we could have done without Oliver’s whining about how early it was, the mystical atmosphere, enhanced by the soft hues of dawn, made our visit a truly enchanting experience. The intricate carvings depicting tales of ancient mythology and the imposing structure itself left an indelible mark, underscoring the historical significance of this UNESCO World Heritage site.
As the warm day unfolded, we ventured further into the Angkor Archaeological Park, discovering other remarkable temples such as Bayon, with its iconic stone faces, and the mystique of the “Tomb Raider” temple, Ta Prohm, entwined with the embrace of towering tree roots. The rich history and spiritual aura of these ancient structures transported us to a bygone era, offering a profound connection to Cambodia's ancient and sophisticated cultural heritage. Navigating the intricate passageways and ascending steep staircases, we marveled at the craftsmanship that went into constructing these architectural marvels. Each detailed carving told a story, and the towering structures held a silent but powerful presence. To top it off, our encounters with countless monkeys, some playful and others not-so-much, lent an unexpectedly lively quality, as they frolicked amidst the ancient ruins and interacted with us all, although not always in the friendliest manner.
The monkey encounters reached a pleasing crescendo as we departed the magnificent Bayon temple and made our way down the adjacent tree-lined boulevard. We first spotted a couple of young macaques looking for easy foraging in a large, open air, garbage area on the side of the road. Upon approaching them for a picture our myopia revealed itself as we noticed monkeys all around, in the threes, walking in the forest and eagerly looking for handouts from those passing by. We were all delighted to watch them and Oliver was over the moon when one young monkey took a liking to him, gently climbing up onto him and curiously inspecting his face and head. Knowing that these monkeys would be better off without the poor diet brought by human interaction was on our mind, but as we weren’t feeding them we managed to enjoy the unique and intimate experience with our primate cousins.
As evening descended we made our way into central Siem Reap, finding ourselves immersed in the lively energy of Pub Street. This bustling thoroughfare buzzed with a vibrant blend of local charm and international (read: backpacker) influences. We indulged in the tantalizing flavors of Cambodian food (including Oliver trying snake for the first time (“it tastes like dry chicken!”) at a local restaurant, soaking in the dynamic atmosphere that contrasts to the grandeur of the ancient temples and serenity of our previous few nights at the hotel.
