Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Arriving in Ho Chi Minh in the early evening, during rush hour, our relatively short taxi ride (in distance only) from the airport to our Airbnb apartment was a clear reminder of what a massive city it is, as it took nearly an hour to cover just under 10 kilometers (~6 miles). With two nights and only one day in the electrically busy city we were thrilled to learn that our cozy apartment was on the 23rd floor, offering both an amazing view and a bit of distance from the “organized” chaos below. Too exhausted to navigate the streets, we grabbed a less than amazing dinner from the 7-11 outside the lobby and settled in for a mellow evening, enjoying air conditioning and the first TV night we’d had in a long time.
The following morning we had to wake up early, which wasn’t especially welcomed, for a full day trip to visit the one place that Oliver insisted we go during our time in Vietnam, the war remnants of the Cu Chi tunnel system outside of Ho Chi Minh. After a brief stop for coffee and breakfast at Highlands Coffee (the Starbucks of Vietnam) we climbed aboard the minivan, which filled up fully as many other travelers were picked up along the way out of the city. After everyone settled in for the hour (plus), drive to the tunnels, our young guide, Tom, warmly welcomed us all and offered a fascinating narrative of some of the history of Ho Chi Minh, the man, Ho Chi Minh, the city, and a fairly thorough and insightful history of the “American” war in Vietnam and the impact it has had, and continues to have, on those that lived through it and the how its legacy still impacts the many Vietnamese born after.
To go into detail on all he conveyed would take far too long and would likely be too much of a history lesson for those that aren’t keenly interested (as, for better or worse, Oliver is). However, Tom’s discussion of the lasting consequences of America’s use of the dioxin containing herbacide, Agent Orange, was immensley disheartening and was made especially poignant when we detoured to stop at an artistic workshop along the way. The center is a non-profit where survivors of Agent Orange exposure (both those impacted during the war and those born with many dreadful birth defects in the decades after) are offered an opportunity to create incredible pieces of artwork, using natural materials and impeccable craftsmanship. As Americans, the war’s legacy lingers in our collective consciousness, tinged with implicit guilt, and it was disturbing and deeply saddening to know that our former leader’s actions are still causing needless suffering and lasting trauma. Outside of the inherent sorrow of the circumstances, the center was fascinating as we witnessed the craftspeople at work. We hadn’t planned to, but before we departed we couldn’t help ourselves from purchasing a few small things after being pulled in by the remarkable and compelling pieces being created.
Our time at the Cu Chi Tunnels was everything Oliver had hoped for, a deep lesson in the ingenuity of the Vietnamese people’s resistance to the American invaders, and a stark display of the terrible things humans are capable of when at war with one another. We wandered through the young forests that have grown in the area since everything was leveled by war over fifty years ago; it was both beautiful and shocking to see the juxtaposition of new life alongside huge impact craters still present from the heavy bombardment of B-52s. The immense series of tunnel systems (complete with kitchens, war rooms, field hospitals and sleeping quarters) themselves were fascinating to explore, as they offered a glimpse into a wildly different and existential reality than anything that the three of us could realistically fathom, with our privilege and comfort filled lives. Although Oliver couldn’t get enough of being in them, Gabriel and Katharina quickly tired of the oppressive heat and claustrophobic size of the network. Clearly we weren’t cut out for gorilla warfare…
After a traffic filled return to the city we decided to branch out, avoid another dinner at 7-11, and explore a bit more of Ho Chi Minh before departing Vietnam for Cambodia the next morning. Following our enjoyment of a stunning sunset from the rooftop gardens atop our building, we took a recommendation from Tom and found ourselves on another (much lower) rooftop for a “fancy” meal in a beautiful setting with many other tourists (Tom’s recommendation apparently has been well shared…). Although dinner wasn’t amazing, we had a lovely time together and made the most of the rest of our evening by wandering the streets, people watching and stumbling upon “District K”, which Oliver and Gabriel had a good laugh about when covering up the “D” and “I” and referring to it as Strict K, clearly Katharina’s place in the city. Needless to say she didn’t find it nearly as funny as they did.
As too often has been the case during our few weeks in Vietnam, we packed up once again with a bit of a heavy heart, wishing we had more time to explore and soak in the uniqueness of Ho Chi Minh. Our time in this beautiful country, with its kind and welcoming people, will be remembered with great fondness. Although we feel excitement for the next leg of our journey, we look forward to returning some day in the future to spend more time in the places we loved and to branch out to the many places we missed along the way.
